Chez Panisse: The Gold Standard

We had dinner at Chez Panisse last night, a gift from our neighbors Andrew Szeri and Callen Sor. (How often do your neighbors send you to Chez Panisse?) As some of you know, we "eat around". After enjoying great restaurants in Paris, New York, Los Angeles, and our own beloved San Francisco we return about once a year to Chez Panisse. Just as in other great restaurants we are greeted warmly, seated at a good table, provided with delicious bread, appetizers, and a great bottle of wine. Then the first course is served and we say, "Oh my gosh!"

Last night the asparagus was first. Yes, mustard sabayon is the most wonderful thing to sauce asparagus. (Why didn't any other restaurant think of that.) Yes, the little "ricotta toast" was an amuse bouche worthy of Paris. But what blew us away was that this was the best asparagus we have eaten in our whole life! We have bought asparagus at Underwood's, Plowboys, Monterey Market, and countless farmer's markets. We have grown our own. Nothing we have ever eaten comes close.

The black cod and potato salad, etc. just proved that the denizens of the "land of the bean and cod" haven't a clue about what to do with that fish.

The pork loin was astonishing. The accompaniments were perfect. But the loin itself rose above anything we have prepared at home or in a restaurant. It was the quality of the loin and the flawless roast that stood out.

This was all accompanied by a bottle of white Burgundy from Vezelay and a glass of red from the Brittany.

Every year after having eaten around the world, we return to Chez Panisse thinking that it will be the same old thing. And every year we leave thinking that this restaurant sets the highest standard of cuisine for America and maybe the world.